here's my little recap--enjoy, che xoxo
Trip to ranch was epic. Driver picked me up in bus station and we drove 2 hrs to a little tin hut in the middle of a gigantic field with gorgeous mountains in the backdrop. Only people there were 2 toothless gauchos. Waited about ten minutes and my driver pointed to phrase in his eng/span book that said "I'm losing patience". I pleaded with him to stay with me until my amigos came. Finally they did - Franke and my mom on horseback! It was amazing. I knew Franke was coming but I never imagined my mom would be there!! I loaded up my possessions into saddlebags and hopped on a horse for the 4 hr ride through the ranch to the cabins. It was spectacular. Hard to describe the beauty. The ranch in total consists of 100,000 acres. The ride took us through and over rolling sprawling hills and mountains. Bushes, flowers and long grass in hues of green, sage, yellow and purple. Some parts lush some dry. Untouched natural beauty as far as they eye can see. Stopped for a small break at a gaucho house halfway. Drunk old gaucho there. Then to the actual ranch. Crossed a river to get there and up one last hill and through a gate and then there we were, basically riding horses into a Christmas eve celebration. My whole familia there to greet me and it was so great to see everyone after two solid days of intense travel. Swigged some beer, some wine, ate some roasted goat, some fresh bread and salad and toasted my tired wet feet by a fire. Awesome.
My room was in a tiny cabin at the bottom of a steep hill where a cow named Monica lives. Which means to get to the room you stumble down a hill covered in cow pies. Franke had laid down some rocks and wood planks to help with the terrain which was amazing. The room itself was very sparse - just a small single bed with a table and a desk. No electricity just a few candles. I loved it. Gorgeous view of the river. Next to the outhouse which was actually quite impressive in it's cleanliness.
The brothers from both families shared a cabin with a kitchen and a picnic table (that Franke built) so that's where we spent most of our time cooking and eating. There was a main cabin (el casa grande) where we would go to get ingredients like rice, pasta, polenta, cheese, onions and potatoes. Also fresh loaves of bread. And sometimes cafe con leche, cookies, fruit, or bread with dulce de leche on top. There was a massive overgrown garden that I just adored. I could stroll in there anytime and pick fresh Swiss chard, kale, squash, baby lettuce, red leaf lettuce, arugula, carrots, radishes, beets, turnips, basil and sage. Heavenly. Then we would cook up whatever trout the boys caught that day as well as goat or steak. We made some incredible meals. Everyone had a hand in contributing to the cooking which of course made them even more delicious. We had unlimited bottles of wine which we took full advantage of as one might imagine we would. One evening we ripped through about 16 bottles in a few hrs after dinner around a campfire...which led to much singing and endless rounds of "would you rather" into the wee hrs of the night. (i.e. Would you rather have lobster claws for hands or rollerblades for feet?)
The days were filled with hiking, horseback riding, fishing, reading and cooking. Also there was a wood burning stove sauna a short hike away situated perfectly at the bottom of two incredible cliffs and right by the river.
There was no hot water and I literally went a week without washing my hair and substituted showers for jumping in the river. We are covered in big bites, scratches, rashes and burns. My mom lost a porcelain tooth while enjoying a rib of goat. That sucked!!! We drank away our pains and we're now en route to BA.